Glarus and Grisons

Near the city of Chur or Coire, and at the foot of the majestic

Calanda, are the ruins of several castles, among others that of

Haldenstein. Not very far from its crumbling walls is a fine spring

of clear water, where people claim a charming vision was often seen.

Dressed in a long white gown which fell in classic folds to her feet,

this lovely maiden was wont to linger on the sunniest spot by the edge

of the spring, dabbling her hands in its cool waters. A hunter once

came to this place, saw the beautiful maiden, and heard her weeping

softly. He immediately drew near and looked at her so compassionately

that she told him if he would only hold her hand and not let it go

until she bade him, he would release her from the baleful spell which

caused her tears.

The young man unhesitatingly took her slender white hand between his

own sunburned palms, but started at finding it as cold as ice. While

he held it tight, trying to communicate a little of his own warmth

to the chilled fingers, a tiny old man came out of the castle and

silently offered him a diamond basket full of gold. Although he could

easily have secured this treasure by stretching out one hand, the young

huntsman continued the task he had voluntarily undertaken, and was soon

rewarded by feeling a little warmth steal into the slender hand he held

so firmly. At the same time the girl’s sad eyes beamed with pleasure, a

slight flush stole into her pallid cheeks, and looking up at him, she

joyfully exclaimed,--

“I see I was not mistaken. You have proved trustworthy; so you may now

let go my hand, and take that basket as a token of my gratitude.”

The maiden softly drew her hand from his, gave him the treasure, and

vanished with a seraphic smile.

Since then the White Lady of Haldenstein has never been seen by

mortals, but the spring over which she mounted guard became known far

and wide for its curative properties. These lasted for many a year; but

although the spring still flows as clear as ever, it is said to have

now lost all its healing powers.

* * * * *

ON the way from Coire to Castiel one passes the awful Tobel, where a

huge dragon once took up its abode. Such were the ravages it made in

that region that the people of Castiel, Calfriesen, and Lüen solemnly

pledged themselves to provide it with a human victim every year on

condition that the monster left them unmolested the rest of the time.

The dragon in the Castieltobel agreed to this arrangement, and the

yearly victim was chosen by lot from each of the villages in turn. Now

it came to pass that a tall, muscular stranger soon came to settle

there with his only daughter, and when the lot fell upon her, he boldly

declared he would accompany her to the monster’s den, and slay it or

perish with her.

Leading the maiden by one hand, and holding his trusty sword tight

in the other, the brave man advanced cautiously, followed at a safe

distance by all the people, who wished to witness his encounter with

the dragon. They did not have to wait long, for, ravenous after a whole

year’s fast, the monster rushed eagerly forward to swallow its prey. It

had already opened wide its capacious jaws, when the desperate father

rushed toward it, thrust his sharp blade right into its throat, and

inflicted such a severe wound that the dragon expired a moment later.

Overcome with joy at having saved his beloved daughter, the father

now fell on his knees, and raising his hands to Heaven, gave solemn

thanks for her preservation. While he was in that attitude, a drop of

dragon-blood fell from his sword upon his head, and such was the deadly

nature of the venom that it instantly killed him. The village people

were so grateful to him for delivering them from this dragon, however,

that they generously provided for his daughter, and erected a church on

the very spot where he had breathed his last.

* * * * *

ABOUT half-way between Castiel and Davos is the village of Arosa, where

grows a fine tree from beneath whose roots gushes a living spring.

According to popular superstition, lucky people can find a golden key

in the hollow whence this water flows from the ground. As soon as

secured, one suddenly perceives a passage-way barred by an iron door,

which can only be opened by means of this golden key.

A herdsman, who once came to refresh himself at this spring, discovered

this key by great good fortune, and boldly opening the locked door,

found himself in a vast cave. There a dwarf bade him choose between a

heap of gold and diamonds, which would make him the wealthiest man in

the country; a golden cow-bell which would assure him the possession of

the finest cattle for miles around; or a lovely girl, whose eyes were

fixed imploringly upon him, and who softly whispered that he would find

true happiness only with her.

The young man hesitated, but as he had a passion for fine cows, he

finally left the cave with the golden bell. He felt so weary upon

leaving this place, however, that he lay down to rest a moment near

the spring, and soon fell asleep. When he awoke, the magic key had

vanished, and he might have believed the whole adventure a mere dream,

had not the golden bell still lain beside him.

On returning to his post, he found his herd miraculously increased, and

all his cows were so handsome that his neighbours soon became jealous

of him, and refused to have anything more to do with him. The young

herdsman, therefore, left alone with his cattle, often regretted he had

not chosen an intelligent companion to share his solitude; but although

he frequently tried to find the golden key again, and thus secure the

fair maid he had once seen, it was all in vain. Within a year from

that time, he lost all his fine cattle, because he brooded continually

over his loneliness instead of taking care of them, and before long he

committed suicide by flinging himself down from the top of one of the

sharp peaks near there.

* * * * *

EAST of Coire and south of the lovely Prätigau, is Davos Platz, so

charmingly located near the top of a pass, where it is well sheltered

from the northeast winds. Besides its interest as a health resort

visited by many noted people, and the beautiful scenery and healthful

climate, this place derives additional charms from its legends. On the

western slope of the Davos Schwartzhorn, for instance, there is a place

generally known as the Dead Alp. Not a shrub or blade of grass is seen

there now; so it offers a striking contrast to the many other fine

pastures in that vicinity.

In olden days this desolate spot was the finest grazing-ground for

miles around, for it was then thickly covered with heavy grass,

and watered by springs of the freshest water. At one time the land

belonged to a rich young dairy maid, who came down into the valley one

fine Sunday afternoon to dance on the village green. She had so many

partners, and so thoroughly enjoyed herself with them, that she did

not want to go home, although she knew that it was time to milk the

cows. Duty warned her to return; but the delights of dancing proved

so tempting that she determined to linger, and tried to silence the

voice of conscience by recklessly cursing both pasture and kine. This

malediction had scarcely left her lips, when her fruitful alp was

turned into a desert, her cows all vanished, and she suddenly found

herself deprived of all the worldly goods she had so little known how

to appreciate!

* * * * *

OTHER Davos herdsmen, as pleasure-loving as she, once cursed the

Icelandic moss or Cyprian herb which was then so rich in milk-producing

qualities that they had to milk their cows several times a day. No

sooner was the curse uttered than the luscious herb dried up, and ever

since then it has been the poorest sort of fodder, which no animal will

eat as long as something else can be found to satisfy its hunger.

* * * * *

NOT very far from the Dead Alp, you can see, summer and winter, a broad

field of snow, far below the usual snow-line. This, too, was once a

luxuriant pasture, where herdsmen were kept very busy tending their

cows, and making butter and cheese from the milk they gave in such

profusion.

The owner of this alp was so good and generous that the poor were in

the habit of going up there for food whenever they were hungry, and

there was much wailing among them when he grew ill and died, and they

heard the pasture now belonged to an avaricious man. They soon found

the new proprietor was even worse than they expected, for he was very

cruel too, and drove all beggars away with curses and hard blows.

A poor but numerous family, travelling through the country, climbed up

these heights one cold and foggy day, to beg for the food and shelter

no one else could have denied them. But when they drew near the châlet,

cross dogs rushed out to meet them, barking, snarling, and showing

their teeth in the fiercest way. The poor people nevertheless made

their way to the door, where they stood, humble suppliants, while the

oldest among them described their pitiful plight and asked for aid.

The hard-hearted herdsman would not listen to him, however, roughly

bade him begone with all his family, and seeing he did not immediately

obey, called out to his men to drive the beggars away. This order was

only too promptly obeyed. The rough servants rushed out, and falling

upon the poor family, lashed them with their long whips, threw stones

at them, and laughed with uproarious glee when their fierce dogs began

to chase the beggars down the mountain.

Besides several old people, there were weak women and puny little

children among these poor fugitives; still these cruel men felt no

respect for age or sex, and merely urged on their dogs worse than ever.

Their inhumanity proved too much for an old man, who, as he tottered

last down the path, with torn garments and bleeding limbs, suddenly

turned around and cursed their alp, wishing it might soon be hidden

beneath a covering of snow that might rest upon it for ever.

That wish was fulfilled the self-same night, for huge masses of snow

and ice fell down upon the pasture, transforming it into a wintry

waste, which well deserves its name, the Cursed Alp. Since then,

whenever a storm rages, or whenever fog envelops the mountain, the

buried herdsmen rise from their shroud of snow, and one can again hear

them snapping their whips, exciting their dogs, and hotly pursuing

ghosts of beggars whom they are condemned to chase for ever in

punishment for their sins.

* * * * *

IN the centre of the Grisons arises a reddish peak known as the

Rothhorn, which towers above all the other heights around it, and from

whence a fine view can be enjoyed.

It is said that the people of Plurs once exploited the gold mines in

this mountain, and thus became very rich. All this prosperity was not

owing to their exertions alone, but due mainly to the fact that they

had won the good graces of the gnomes, who, at noon every day, poured a

canful of liquid gold down into a vein which they could easily reach.

Unfortunately, the people of Plurs did not make a wise use of this

wealth, but drank, gambled, and led vicious lives. This fact so

incensed their former friends, the mountain spirits, that they slyly

loosened great masses of stones and dirt, and hurled them down upon the

city one dark night in 1618.

Only one of the inhabitants, a pack-driver, escaped from general

destruction. He had arrived in the village late, intending to tarry

there overnight, but his leading mule refused to stop at the inn, and

passing on was dutifully followed by all the rest, although the driver

tried to stop them. Three times this man drove his train back to the

inn, but three times they passed by, and the pack-driver had to follow.

When they had gone some distance from the city for the third and last

time, the man suddenly heard a terrible noise, and, looking behind

him, witnessed the landslide and the total destruction of the once

prosperous little city.

* * * * *

THE Engadine Valley, noted for its bracing climate, is rather bleak,

for, according to a popular saying, it boasts nine months of winter and

three of cold.

In the seventh century St. Florinus with one disciple came to Rémus, in

the northern part of this valley, to preach the gospel. Feeling very

weak and ill one day, the saint bade his faithful companion beg some

wine at a neighbouring castle to restore his failing strength.

The disciple obeyed, and having secured a crockful, slowly wended his

way home. He soon met a poor woman weeping bitterly, and inquiring

the cause of her sorrow, learned that her husband had been very ill,

and that she had no money to buy the wine he needed to restore his

strength. Touched by her tears, the disciple poured all he had received

into the vessel she held, and then went back to the castle to beg

for more. But the people up there, having seen him give the wine to

the poor woman, now reproved him harshly, and sent him empty-handed

away. The disciple departed sadly, regretting his generous deed; and,

fearing to present himself before his master with an empty crock, he

filled it with water at a wayside spring. As soon as St. Florinus

saw him standing at his bedside, he reached up eagerly, seized the

crock, and took a long deep draught. The disciple, who fully expected

an exclamation of bitter disappointment, was dumfounded to hear the

saint declare he had never tasted such good and strengthening wine;

and, when invited to try it also, he discovered that the miracle of

Cana had been repeated, for the Lord had again turned water into wine.

This transformation took place, as long as the saint needed a tonic;

but when he was quite well, the crock was found to contain nothing but

water as before.

* * * * *

THE people of the Engadine valley are very simple indeed; so simple

that a legend claims they were often cheated, and never could decide

what it was best to do. A traveller, hearing the people of Sils

complain, mischievously suggested that they ought to buy a little

wisdom, and when they seriously inquired what it was and where it could

be procured, he gravely informed them that it was a precious herb,

purchasable only in Venice.

The people, believing him implicitly, took up a collection and sent an

emissary to Italy to buy the rare plant. After a long painful journey,

this man came home, having purchased from a charlatan the only sprout

of the herb of wisdom still to be had in that city. The people all

crowded eagerly around their emissary to see and admire the wonderful

herb, compared it exhaustively with those which grew around them,

and although they could perceive but little difference, planted it

carefully on their village green. But, while they were indulging in a

great jollification to celebrate the advent of wisdom among them, an

old donkey came straying along, and before they could prevent it, ate

up the precious plant!

Since then, the people of Sils have never been able to secure another

specimen, and it is said they still grievously mourn their great loss.

* * * * *

THE scene of the above legend is located in the Upper Engadine or Inn

Valley, south of the much frequented towns of St. Moritz and Pontresina.

From there, you can see the dazzling snow top of the Bernina, a high

mountain between Switzerland and Italy, with a much travelled pass

leading from the Engadine to the Valteline Valley. Journeying from

Poschiavo over the Bernina, one passes a desolate spot formerly

occupied by the small town of Zarera. The inhabitants of that place are

said to have taken advantage of their position on the highway between

Italy and Switzerland, to extort money from all the pack-drivers and

travellers who passed through there. In fact, they enriched themselves

by such unlawful and questionable means that they finally incurred

the wrath of Heaven. One night, when the moon was partly veiled by

shifting clouds, a maiden dressed in white rode slowly around their

town on a snowy palfrey, calling to them to repent while it was still

time. But this admonition fell upon ears that would not hear, and the

predicted retribution soon came. Dark clouds gathered around the top

of the mountain, vivid flashes of lightning zigzagged through the

ever-increasing gloom, and soon the rain came down in such torrents

that rocks and trees were swept down the mountain like pebbles and

chips. In a few minutes the once prosperous town of Zarera was

completely annihilated, and only the fragments of ruined houses could

still be detected here and there. All the people perished in this

flood, with the exception of a mother and daughter, noted for their

piety, who dwelt at some distance from the wicked town.

These two women had been very busy that day, doing their semi-annual

baking; for, like most of the people around there, they made bread

only twice a year. In spite of the serious work on hand, they prayed

as long and read their Bible as diligently as usual, and even while

setting the bread to rise, commented reverently upon the teachings

contained in Our Lord’s mentions of leaven and flour.

From time to time one or the other gazed out into the garden, where

chestnut-trees three hundred years old overshadowed their little house.

The southern exposure and the protection afforded by the mountain

against the cold winds from the north and east, made their peach and

apricot trees bloom already in February, allowed fresh figs to grow

close at hand, and made their vines as productive as those in the

Valteline. The two women were very grateful for all these blessings,

and would have been perfectly happy with their lot, had they not sorely

missed their husband and father, who had died three years before.

While taking the huge loaves of sweet-smelling fresh bread out of the

oven, they thrice heard the melancholy, wailing note of the storm bird,

but they were so absorbed in their occupations that they paid no heed

to it, until the tempest fairly broke over their heads and the rain

began to fall with violence.

All through that awful storm, which wrecked the town of Zarera, they

knelt in prayer, and when morning came and the downpour ceased, they

found their garden transformed into a stony waste, and all their trees

uprooted and swept down into the valley.

In spite of the losses which suddenly deprived them of their means

of existence, these two women returned fervent thanks for their

preservation, and seeing that their house was now unsafe, and that

it would be useless to remain on the mountain, they picked up their

few remaining possessions, and wended their way down into the valley.

There they soon found shelter, and by dint of hard work finally

managed to retrieve their shattered fortunes; but, as long as they

lived, they both remembered the awful storm in which they would surely

have perished had it not been for the hand of God stretched out in

protection over them.

* * * * *

FOLLOWING the Rhine’s devious course toward its source in the St.

Gothard mountain, we come to the junction of two branches of this

stream at Disentis.[16] Here stands an abbey, dating from the seventh

century, when its monks served as missionaries to the people around

them.

[16] For other data, see the author’s “Legends of the Rhine.”

The heathen from the banks of Lake Constance once made a raid down

this valley, and visiting every castle, church, convent, and hut,

destroyed almost everything they could not carry away. Laden with

booty, they were slowly making their way north again, when they were

surprised at Disentis by the exasperated Swiss. The latter there

attacked the heathen with such fury that all those who were not killed

were only too glad to seek safety in precipitate flight.

The brave Swiss were so weary, when the battle was over, and so parched

with thirst, that they longed for a drink. As there was no spring near

by, and as their extreme exhaustion would not permit their going in

search of one, their venerable old leader made a short but fervent

prayer, and then thrust his sword into the ground up to the very hilt.

When he slowly drew it out again a moment later, a strong jet of water

shot straight up into the air, and falling down again on the rocky

soil, soon formed a pool and brook where all could drink. This spring

still flows as freely as ever, and its limpid waters possess medicinal

properties which have since attracted many visitors to this picturesque

spot.

* * * * *

THE line between Glarus and Grisons was long undetermined, so

the shepherds from either canton often indulged in raids and

cattle-stealing, which not infrequently resulted in violence and

bloodshed.

Once the men of Glarus suddenly came over the border, and noiselessly

surrounding a large pasture, drove away all the cows, after tumbling

the herdsmen head first into the great kettles of boiling milk where

they were busy making cheese. Only one of these men managed to escape

death by hiding in the hay. As soon as the raiders vanished, he

determined to sound the alarm. Taking his horn, he therefore climbed

up into a pine-tree, just above the great Flimser Rock, and calling

through this instrument with all his might, told his beloved Trubina,

who dwelt on another alp, of the misfortune which had occurred. The

strain was such, however, that the unhappy youth burst a blood-vessel,

and sank dying from the top of the tree. His life blood ran in a thin

stream over the great rock, where it made an indelible red streak,

which can still be seen, and which serves to remind people of his

heroic deed.

The timely warning he had given enabled Trubina to start a party

of Grisons herdsmen after the cattle, which they followed down the

mountain to the village of Flims. By careful reconnoitring, they soon

ascertained that the cows had been turned into an enclosed orchard,

just beside the inn where the raiders were celebrating their capture in

the most convivial way.

Stealing unseen into this orchard, the Grisons men slyly fastened all

the cow-bells to one steer, which they left in the enclosure, while

they noiselessly drove all the rest of the herd home. The revellers,

hearing the constant tinkle of cow-bells, deemed their prizes quite

safe, and were therefore greatly surprised and chagrined, when after

their carousal they found only one bull calf in the enclosure, and saw

how cleverly they had been duped.

* * * * *

ON the frontier between Glarus and Uri, and not far from the Klausen

Pass, where the great Boundary Race took place, rises a majestic

glacier known as the Claridenalp. The people around there claim that

this mountain was once fine pasture-land up to the very top, where a

small ice-cap served to feed the many streams trickling down through

the rich alps into the valley.

Most of the grazing on the Claridenalp once belonged to a young

herdsman, who, although he revelled in plenty, cruelly let his old

parents starve in the valley below him. This young man was, however,

lavish enough when it suited him to be so, for he daily sent rich

presents to his sweetheart, who, on the whole, was as selfish and

heartless as he.

Finding separation from her unendurable, the young herdsman finally

begged her to come up and spend the summer with him in his fine

châlet, and receiving a favourable answer, immediately began elaborate

preparations for her reception. His cows were groomed until they shone,

and decked with bright ribbons and garlands of flowers; his larder

stocked with every dainty he could secure, and lest his beloved should

bruise her tender feet against a stone, or soil her dainty apparel in

walking near the châlet, he paved the space all around it with fine

rich cheeses, thus making a soft and smooth, if rather costly floor.

Meeting his sweetheart part way down the mountain, the herdsman

joyfully escorted her to the châlet, where she duly admired all his

arrangements, and encouraged his extravagance by throwing butter into

the fire to keep up a bright flame. The revelry up in the châlet grew

more fast and furious hour after hour, and the lovers feasted and sang,

while the poor parents, faint from lack of food, lay shivering on their

hard pallets down in the valley.

A burst of loud music floating down from the mountain finally roused

the old father from his torpor. Sitting up in bed, he then shook his

emaciated fist in the direction of the châlet, and solemnly cursed his

unnatural son.

That night, an awful storm swept down the mountain, and when morning

broke, the people in the valley saw that the Claridenalp had been

transformed overnight into the glacier which you now see. Pasture and

cattle, herdsman and sweetheart had all vanished, but the spirits of

the lovers are said to haunt the site of their mad revelry.

Similar stories, with trifling variations, are told of many other

snow mountains in Switzerland. The Plan Nevé, for instance, is said

to have become a waste because a herdsman ill-treated his old mother.

But the Blümelisalp, once the possession of a rich dairymaid, who

built a staircase of cheeses from valley to châlet so she could more

easily trip down to the weekly dances, was transformed into the present

glacier, because she cruelly gave an aged beggar a drink of milk in

which she maliciously stirred some rennet. The milk, turning suddenly

into a hard lump of cheese in the poor woman’s stomach, caused her such

intolerable suffering that she cursed the cruel giver.

Since then, the alp, once thickly strewn with the many delicate

Alpine flowers which gave it its name, has been almost inaccessible.

But countless mortals constantly admire it from a distance, and

breathlessly watch it flush at sunset, or glitter in all its icy

splendour beneath the silvery rays of the full moon.

* * * * *

HELVETIA boasts of many other legends connected with nearly every part

of her soil; but as they are mostly repetitions of those already quoted

they are purposely omitted here. The samples of Swiss folklore already

supplied will enable travellers to gain some idea of the old-time

village tales which have cast their glamour over “the playground of

Europe.” These crude yet often poetical imaginings lend additional

charms to scenery which rises before our mental vision whenever we hear

or see the magic word “Switzerland.”